LONDON NOW (APRIL-MAY)
DABBOUS
39 Whitfield Street, W1T 2SF T: 020 7323 1544
This is the restaurant of the moment. It has brought together
Japanese methods, San Sebastian inspired flavours and a little bit
of the Nordic trend, all within an urban designed restaurant. There
are concrete floors, wooden beams and distressed metal screens.
Ollie Dabbous formerly at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons and Texture
has set up on his own and is wowing the critics. The food is simple
and small and very beautiful to look at. Meat dishes are often slow
cooked to perfection and garnishes are infused with contrasting
herbs and flavours. This is a place for the serious foodie who can
see past the stark interior.
LA BODEGA NEGRA
9 Old Compton Street, London W1D 5JF T: 020 7758 4100
The owners of the legendary La Esquina in New York have finally
crossed the pond to bring London the coolest New York spot in town.
The offering is Mexican-American inspired and has a good selection
of tostaditas, tacos and ceviche on the menu as well as more
American "hot" dishes. The dual purpose site, restaurant and café
& ceviche bar is entered on one side through the façade of an
adult-entertainment store which adds to the exclusive nature of
this very a-list restaurant.
BURGER & LOBSTER
29 Clarges Street, London W1J 7EF T: 020 7409 1699
The name says it all. This Mayfair establishment serves up some of
the best lobsters and hamburgers in town but it is one of the
shortest menus in the capital. Whether you order lobster or a
burger they charge the same and it is excellent quality produce at
a very reasonable price. The burgers are assembled using top cuts
of beef and the lobster is served either steamed, steamed then
grilled with lemon and butter or in a brioche bun with wasabi mayo.
Unsurprisingly the brioche is freshly baked each morning, the
accompanying salad is crisp and the chips are cooked to perfection.
Unfortunately there are no reservations, but the queue moves
quickly.
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RECOMMENDATIONS
THE DELAUNAY
55 Aldwych, London WC2 T: 020 7499 8558
Recently opened by the creators of The Wolseley and previous
owners of The Ivy, The Delaunay is an elegant restaurant, kitted
out in the style of one of the Grand Cafes of Europe. Upon arrival
diners are greeted by a top-hatted doorman before entering into a
timeless dining room equipped with glass-topped cake trolley and
marble flooring. The menu is classic European and divided into
sections: soups, starters, eggs, crustacea, dish of the day, fish,
main courses, cakes and ice creams. It is open all day and already
very popular.
MEAT LIQUOR
74 Welbeck Street, London W1G T: 020 7224 4293
Tucked behind Selfridges in the Marylebone area Meat Liquor is
often recognised because of the queue of diners that extends along
the quiet back street, but don't be put off, it moves quickly and
it's worth the wait. Famed for its variety of hamburgers, the Dead
Hippie is the one to go for. Don't expect an elegant restaurant,
the interior is dark, meat-pit grime-esque but it all adds to the
atmosphere and diners can see each other due to the neon lit
signs.
MISHKIN'S
25 Catherine Street, London WC2B T: 020 7240 2078
Latest sister restaurant to Polpo, Polpetto, Da Polpo and
Spuntino, Mishkin's is loosely based on a New York Jewish deli. The
menu is eclectic: salt beef, pastrami, chopped liver, lox and
bagels. It's small and informal and there's a bar for counter top
dining. For very intimate dining there's a telephone booth at the
back with red leather banquettes, you might even be able to
telephone your order through
COPITA
26 D'Arblay Street, London W1F 8E T: 020 7287 7797
This brand new tapas style joint in deepest, darkest Soho is
simple and casual. There aren't any smart tables and chairs or
orderly service, and the cellar-like space is filled with loose
seating in the form of high stools and scattered table tops that
rest around ceramic pillars. It's earthy and real and the food is
too. There are traditional Spanish plates but all of them have an
original angle, pigeon with date and beetroot, cod throat with
clams and parsley, and baked figs with goat's curd ice cream.
Everything can be shared and there are no reservations.
BREAD STREET KITCHEN
20 Bread Street, London EC4M 9AB T: 020 3030 4050
This highly anticipated restaurant is the latest opening from
Gordon Ramsay. During the daytime it could be described as a casual
canteen but as the sun sets it transforms into much more of a
destination restaurant with dimmed lights and soft candles. The
menu is British but eclectic, there's a sophisticated version of a
prawn cocktail, a classic mutton pie, a hamburger and a raw bar
serving up various uncooked dishes such as a ceviche. It's New York
in style, loud at times but is reasonably priced and Ramsay at his
best.
DUCK SOUP
41 Dean Street, London W1D 4PY T: 020 7287 4599
This new Soho opening on bustling Dean Street claims to have "an
easy European approach to wine and food". The menu is scribbled
onto little pieces of yellow paper and the background music comes
from a record player in the corner of this white tiled place. The
menu is mainly influenced by French, Italian and Scandinavian
cooking and there are dishes such as oysters, ceps with lardo,
cheese and sourdough, and quail with saffron mayonnaise and
caramelised lemon. It's another casual restaurant with no
reservations but it's worth the wait.
PIZZA EAST PORTOBELLO
310 Portobello Road, London W10 T: 020 7969 4500
The popular Soho House restaurant in Shoreditch, Pizza East has
opened a West London outpost on hip Portobello Road. Formerly an
old pub, the space is rustic and boasts a wood burning pizza oven.
There's also exposed brick, reclaimed chairs and a great menu to
boot. It's casual and there are no reservations.
GALOUPET
13 Beauchamp Place, London SW3 1NQ T: 020 7036 3600
This new restaurant, bar and wine merchant is named after the
owner's prestigious Provencal wine estate, Chateau du Galoupet. The
principles of the restaurant are guided by the principles of their
winemaking and they work with small artisnal suppliers. Fantastic
French food paired with glorious wines, a great spot if in the
Knightsbridge area.
CASA BATAVIA
135 Kensington Church Street, London W8 7LP T: 020 7221 7348
This is the first UK restaurant from Michelin starred Italian chef
Nicola Batavia. Although slightly clinical in its appearance and
very industrial-Turin in style the Northern Italian flavours served
up here are outstanding. Dishes include rabbit salad, linguine with
baby squid and wild fennel and chocolate and amaretto
soufflé.
DA POLPO
6 Maiden Lane, London WC2E T: 020 7836 8448
This new Italian/American casual osteria is the younger sister to
the ever popular Polpo and Polpetto. It offers comfort food in
bright and airy surroundings and much of its design is made up of
reclaimed materials such as a tin ceiling from New York, church
pews and Dutch school chairs. Reservations are not taken in the
evenings and you might have to queue, but it will be worth
it.
CAY TRE
42-43 Dean Street, London W1D T: 020 7317 9118
This new opening is bound to be popular as the original restaurant
in trendy Shoreditch has a following that would trek from near and
far to taste the Vietnamese flavours on offer. Favourite dishes are
the Chef's Vinh beef, skewered five spice rib beef with soy dipping
sauce, grilled octopus with lemongrass, coriander and chilli and
Cha La Lot, spicy ground pork wrapped in wild betel leaves and
served with peanuts and nuoc cham. It is fresh, easy going and
great value.
ROGANIC
19 Blandford Street, London W1U T: 020 7486 0380
Set to be a long term pop up restaurant in London's smart
Marylebone area, Roganic is the creation of owner Simon Rogan. It
is small but comfortable and there is a culinary flair for
combining innovation with outstanding ingredients. There's a strict
tasting menu but its packed full of less known herbs and exciting
vegetables. The food looks fantastic and everything is fresh and
honest.
POLLEN STREET SOCIAL
8 Pollen Street, London W1 T: 020 7290 7600
The proprietor of this new restaurant, on the site of a former
Mayfair pub is Gordon Ramsay protégé, Jason Atherton. It is a fine
dining destination that serves creative food but with a more
flexible, British laid back approach. There's a Josper grill
cooking the daily specials and two separate bars, the first serving
tapas and the second, desserts. The restaurant design is slick,
with two kitchens and areas of cleverly linked space.
RIDING HOUSE CAFÉ
43-51 Great Titchfield Street, London W1 T: 020 7927 0840
This is an all-day bar-brasserie in the leafy area of Fitzrovia
where diners are encouraged to use it as a meeting spot. The menu
is American inspired, serving small plates and main courses such as
slow roasted lamb shoulder with caponata, sea bass ceviche, sweet
potato & chickpea cake and chocolate praline semi freddo. There
is an interesting cocktail list too.
SPUNTINO
61 Rupert Street, London WC2 No telephone number
This is a highly awaited smaller version of its successful big
sister restaurants, Polpo and Polpetto. The design is similar to a
speakeasy come Italian diner, there are no reservations and the
queue might be out the door as there are only 30 seats - but it is
worth the wait. The menu has trendy classics such as sliders, mac
& cheese and truffled egg toast and these are all slid across
the bar. This restaurant is fun but remember, there is only filter
coffee and it's poured from a glass jug.
NOPI
21 Warwick Street, W1 T: 020 7494 9584
This is Yotam Ottolenghi's first foray into proper sit down all
day dining service. It has a refined look; brass tabletops and
quirky light fittings. The food still harps back to the
Mediterranean and Middle East with a touch of Asian seasoning. With
bold flavours in the heart of Soho, you can't go wrong with a trip
to Nopi.
CHABROT BISTROT D'AMIS
9 Knightsbridge Green, SW1 T: 020 7225 2238
A charming French bistro in fashionable Knightsbridge that is
tucked away in a secluded side street and reasonably priced. The
menu is loaded with rich, hearty dishes from southern France with
an abundance of poultry and meat and an extensive wine list and a
great set lunch menu too.
NORTH ROAD
69-73 St John Street, EC1 T: 020 3217 0033
This Scandinavian restaurant is headed up by Christoffer Hruskova
who trained under Rene Redzepi of Noma fame. It serves a modern
European menu with Danish influences, dishes include cured salmon
with buttermilk vinaigrette and sheep's milk yoghurt with fir pine
and muesli. The restaurant itself is all about clean lines and
blonde wood with soft lighting.
HAKKASAN
17 Bruton Street, W1 T: 020 7907 1888
The original Hakkasan opened nearly a decade ago, masterminded by
Alan Yau with his refreshing interpretation of Chinese cuisine and
fine dining mixed together into one sexy package. Yau is no longer
associated Hakkasan but this second London branch Mayfair is a
carbon copy of the original, and filled with the same romance,
glamour and fine food.
HAWKSMOOR SEVEN DIALS
11 Langley Street, WC2 T: 020 7856 2154
This London steak house serves British beef sourced from the
Ginger pig, and it has opened to good acclaim. The interiors are
done well and are evocative of old New York with its speakeasy feel
and old brickwork. Order the Hawksmoor's kimchi burger, the latest
must-order to hit London's dining scene - it's a multi-culti
delicacy combining ground beef with cheese and home-made kimchi -
the Korean pickle made with fermented cabbage.
BRAWN
49 Columbia Road, E2 T: 020 7729 5692
Brawn comes from the same stable as the much lauded Terroirs in
Charing Cross - a relaxed venue that presents the very now French
tapas sharing-plate. It has been noted that food of this quality at
this price is rare indeed.
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